Mrs frosty hesson biography

The day that surfer Jay Moriarity died in the Indian Ocean, his friend and mentor Richard “Frosty” Hesson was on a bike ride with a friend.

As workouts go, it wasn”t a major one for Hesson, a veteran big-wave surfer and life-long athlete who was at the time in his early 50s. Compared to many of the other rides he had regularly taken, this one was nothing special.

But about a half an hour into his ride, just as he was climbing a particularly challenging — though far from insurmountable — uphill, something odd happened.

The Frosty Hesson memoirs of the Mavericks big wave rides

“I just suddenly lost my energy,” he said. “I mean, I was done. And that never happened to me. I thought I was sick or something.”

The episode is one of many compelling tales Hesson tells in his new memoir “Making Mavericks,” released in conjunction, of course, with “Chasing Mavericks,” the drama based on Hesson”s long association with Moriarity.

The next day, Hesson took his tw Frosty Hesson: The Real-Life Hero Of Mavericks - Surf Hungry JEL